We took the train from Paris Gare de Lyon to Moutierre, leaving our house around 7 a.m. with our little rolling suitcases, stuffed with cold weather clothes and wearing our big boots and coats. It wasn't that cold here, but I couldn't get another thing in that suitcase -- so either wear it, carry it, or leave it behind!!!
We didn't know that we were headed into true spring skiing - with brilliant sunshine every day, and we wouldn't need half of what we brought - but I am not complaining about that!
We arrived in Moutiere, really a little train station town for all the mountain resorts that it is surrounded by. We took the "Altibus" to our little town Champagny-en-Vanoise, a tiny little village - so tiny it doesn't even have a pharmacy! Every french town must by law have a pharmacy within 5 km - this one doesn't and that causes angst for some. It does however have two good pizza and crepe places and of course at least three bars, and a billion ski supply stores. It also has a lift to the ski mountain within walking distance of the town center, and less than 5k up the mountain -- a great cross country ski center.
We arrived on Sat. afternoon and started looking for ski lifts, gear, and access to lessons. I surprised Pat by signing up for a cross country ski lesson and committing to at least skiing for one day. He signed up for lessons for 3 days, and bought a pass for the week.
The town was pretty small, and on Saturdays (the day that most people arrive or depart) they don't have the local bus running because, well - we never figured that one out. We schlepped our luggage to our hotel - nearly 2km by foot, asking ourselves whose great idea this was, did I mention there were no taxis either? Anyway, and when we arrived at the hotel found that they did have a shuttle everyday BUT Sat. I guess there is some logic we missed here.
We found out that the hotel has a shuttle that runs in the mornings until 12 and again starting at 4 in the afternoons every day but Sat. so our entire schedule would have to revolve around that. Mind you I like to walk, but it was a bit cold, and always uphill - 2km each way!
Oh but there was lots to explore on that walk. We found an ancient couple who made cheese in their barn, located under their 2nd floor apartment (see the picture). We got some great photos, tried some really stinky cheese and of course bought a tome for our sandwiches that week.
We also went to the local grocery and stocked up on ski week essentials - wine, bread, yogurt, bananas, milk, cereal and mixed nuts.
Then we walked to the top of the town for dinner our first night and were treated with a fine french mountain meal, heavy enough to reward us for our hard work, and to prepare us for our walk back home and days ahead.
We quickly learned the routine - up at 7:30, dress for the day with a lunch strapped to your back, and catch the "navette" up to town. Then gather our ski gear at the local rental (they graciously kept it each night for us) and part ways for our respective mountain playgrounds. Pat was not happy with the makeup of his ski class on the first day, but it turned out to be not so bad. He found 2-6 year olds, himself and a 65-year-old man who had not skied nearly enough to be in that group, but the instructor was really pleasant and gave Pat lots of tips, as well as lots of suggestions for great aftern
oon runs.One of the 6-year-olds skied like a pro - so he thought that was fun to see.
Me on the other hand, had a great instructor for two hours on Sunday, and the rest of the week, I skied with Virginie a 20-something sommelier from a 5-star Paris Hotel who was also up there skiing for the week. We had a blast. We were both very happy to challenge ourselves on the well groomed ski trails and to question how anyone could want to hurtle themselves downhill when there was all this beauty to appreciate -- slowly.
Needless to say, it was a fantastic vacation, and a true paradise.
