
Day 3 took us from Sparta towards Kalamata and through an amazing canyon, climbing all the time. We followed a tractor trailer hauling new cars that only barely fit through the many tunnels that threaded through the mountain range. We could not believe the profusion of the wildflowers and the narrow waterfalls that were carved out of the stone, allowing the mountain water to drip down from hundreds of feet up. As we came through one passage, we saw the beginning and the full devastation of last year’s wildfires that roared through nearly 1/3 of the country. We could still see where the fight had been won to save towns or vineyards, and where it was lost. The harsh reality of it was that some of the most beautiful views came from where the fire has scorched the earth last year, and this spring the magenta wildflowers were blanketing the hillside reveling in the sun that they couldn’t have seen had the huge fir trees been there to block out the rays.
This winding through the mountains and valleys continued for a few hours until we came to Messéne a fabulous, off the beaten path remnant of Greece. The tiny little mountain town hosts spectacular ruins, and has about 4 restaurants in its total population of no more than 100 people. It obviously is supported solely by tourism, and I pity the inhabitant who drives to the next town to work – the trip is not easy or close. While we were lunching on a balcony overlooking the valley, a truck came through selling supplies, honking his horn and shouting over a loud speaker.