There is this great little company called Paris Walks here in Paris. The owners, Peter and Oriel Cane go to great efforts to recruit, train and keep really interesting people working for them, for ex. Chris and Mary Ellen, to conduct english speaking walking tours, all over Paris and the surrounding areas.
Maybe you have read about some of the Medieval Architecture tours I went on last winter under the wise guidance of Oriel, or with Pat when we first arrived in France, but you haven't explored Paris until you have heard some of the amazing stories about their past residents, like Ernest Hemingway, Victor Hugo, the french royalty (including the emperor) and their lifestyles, or the occupation of Paris and who really saved it.
A few Fridays ago, Chris, a very funny guide took me, Carole and Sheila along with about 18 other tourists through "Hemingway's Paris." The walk was based in the Mouffetard quarter, and highlighted Hemingway's first apartment with his first wife. If you have read A Moveable Feast this was where "Tatie" was living when he met F Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein, to name a few. It was great fun for me, walking and listening, and as always there was lots of history to learn. The special tip was finding another really great area to eat, drink and wander around.
I think it was the following week the we went to Nation and Picpus Cemetery, where in 1794 the Revolutionaries buried the bodies of those who were guillotined for carrying a bible, or expressing some doubt about the need for the extreme violence in Paris during the revolt. The cemetery is built on the grounds of what was a convent before the Revolution, and during the abolishment of religion it became a sanctuary for the wealthy to get a facial and recuperate. It has again become a convent, some before being beheaded. This private cemetery is not well maintained, unlike the famous Pere LaChaise, but there are many famous names buried here. The guillotined were buried in two mass graves for about 1300 people, (a third was dug, but fortunately the revolution ended before they filled it.) which are now separated by a wall from the rest of the cemetery. But the family members bought the land and now any family member of someone who was guillotined can be interred at Picpus. This means that the entire Lafayette family - as in the famous general who saved Louisiana (or so the story goes) is buried at Picpus, because the mother and sisters of Lafayette's wife were guillotined for being part of the elite.
Another great tour was the trip to Les Halles. This was the weekend before the big election, and there were posters for candidates everywhere.
Mary Ellen (our tour guide) did a great job conjuring up the stories of the famous market place, which no longer exists, but still holds court for dining out and boutique shopping. There is still the oldest Patisserie in Paris, a fromagerie with an incredible selection, some really old restaurants and quite the street show. The new Les Halles is not really all that beautiful, but it is in the shadow of an enormous cathedral that once had beautiful stained glass, until during a coronation or something, all the windows were blown out in a kind of 21 gun salute -- indoors.
Well anyway, just like these walking tours tend to do, I am rambling along now, finding interesting things where ever I look, and happy to share it with you. If you are thinking about going to any city for a brief visit, don't hesitate to take a walking tour. I guarantee you will find something interesting and amusing. If you are coming to Paris - remember - Paris Walks.
